St Lo - much misunderstood....

St Lo is our nearest big town and where we have to go to do official stuff. I must confess when we first bought our house some 20 years ago, I thought that St Lo was the most dreary, miserable place in Normandie. To be fair, much of it was completely obliterated during the Second World War as it was a German stronghold and following D-Day in this region the Allies bombed the hell out of it. The photographs from that time are truly appalling. So much of the architecture here is rebuilt or fairly modern and very 1960s.
In the past few years however there has been something of a renaissance in St Lo. The castle (long gone) ramparts are being maintained; the land at the side of the river Vire in the town centre has been regenerated with a fancy footbridge and green areas to sit and take in the view. Each summer, the bridges are festooned with beautiful flowers and numerous colourful flags. Some of the drab buildings have been given a new lease of life and have been painted in jolly pinks, and other soft shades that have really changed the place.
There are now lots of lively bars and restaurants (20 yrs ago it was dead after 6pm) and there is even a restaurant with a Michelin star. There is a big, weekly market on a Saturday morning throughout the year that sells just about everything at reasonable prices - even mattresses (much to my amusement - I always have the urge to try one out!). The ubiquitous sausage stands are there on a Saturday too - surely they alone are worth a visit.
With regard to things to do - well, there is a big indoor swimming pool and water park (my young neighbours say it is fabulous); or you could visit the Haras where many famous horses have been reared and housed; or visit the new cinema and bowling alley on the banks of the river.
Yesterday evening, it was still very warm and we walked along the river bank out of town (alongside the railway) with our dog - it was peaceful and glorious (see photographs below).
St Lo has lots of shops - chain and independent - today I spent the morning searching for a suitable handbag for a wedding I am going to on Thursday - it was such a pleasure to walk along the sunny, tree lined streets and browse in the shops. Parking is free and plentiful.
There is a camping aire alongside the river Vire for camping cars (motor homes) only (see pic below).
As I said before, there are lots of restaurants - here are just a few that we visit regularly:
La Rotonde - inexpensive, every day French food/drinks
Le Bounty - fabulous, inexpensive dining here - a modern interior and really nice food (don't be put off by the exterior)
La Boucherie - a must for meat lovers
Villa Toscana - great, cheap Italian food
Le Bel Canto - another reasoably priced Italian
Les Capucines - renowned for good food
Le ferme de Chateau Agneaux - fabulous fine dining at a very reasonable price
There are many more....
Next time you are passing St Lo, stop and check it out - it is moving up in the world - enfin!

Haras St Lo
Le cÃ©lÃ¨bre haras de Saint-LÃ´, dans la Manche, est en vente. Qui en deviendra le propriÃ©taire ? Les collectivitÃ©s locales ou des privÃ©s ? (Photo : PÃ´le hippique de Saint-LÃ´)